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A Saudi woman can’t even report harassment by a man without having a or male guardian, by her side.

A group of traditional Saudi women, skeptical of any sort of liberalization, recently started an organization called My Guardian Knows What’s Best for Me.

Just the vacation spot for a headstrong, adventure-loving, cocktail-imbibing, fashion-conscious chick.

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The warrior al-Sauds got religious legitimacy; the anhedonic Wahhabis got protection.To this day the Koran is the constitution of Saudi Arabia, and Wahhabism its dominant faith.Armed with moxie and a Burqini, the author confronts the limits of Saudi Arabian hospitality, as well as various male enforcers, learning that, as always, it matters whom you know.I wanted to know all about Eve.“Our grandmother Eve?I had visited Saudi Arabia twice before, and knew it was the hardest place on earth for a woman to negotiate.

Women traveling on their own have generally needed government minders or permission slips.) According to legend, when Adam and Eve were evicted from the Garden of Eden they went their separate ways, Adam ending up in Mecca and Eve in Jidda, with a single reunion. ) Eve’s cemetery lies behind a weathered green door in Old Jidda.When I suggested we visit, Abdullah smiled with sweet exasperation.Three years after 9/11, in 2004, the Kingdom decided to give the tourism business another try, this time hiring a public-relations firm to get things rolling.The Web site of the resulting Supreme Commission for Tourism was “a disaster,” one Saudi official abashedly recalls, shaking his head.The preservation of these 500 houses surrounding a souk marks an attempt by the Saudis, whose oil profits turned them into bling addicts, to appreciate the beauty of what they dismissively call “old stuff.”Jidda means “grandmother” in Arabic, and the city may have gotten its name because tradition holds that the grandmother of all temptresses, the biblical Eve, is buried here—an apt symbol for a country that legally, sexually, and sartorially buries its women alive.